Category Archives: Mods

Automotive Modifications

Aftermarket Heat Shields

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I posted earlier about my turbo heat blanket research and my findings.  I mentioned in that post that I would look at aftermarket heat shield solutions.  My plan is to use both a good turbo heat shield and the turbo heat blanket.

My choice will be one of the following:

Nameless Performance Downpipe Heat Shield

CB Titanium Heat Shield

 

The Nameless Performance example is normally $85 (subject to change, obviously) but there’s also the option of a ceramic coating, which adds $40 more to the cost.  There are also free color options.

The CB example is fully titanium and is $4 more than the Nameless version.

I’m obviously biased since I’ve several Nameless products on the car already (a Nameless product would better fit the current motif, and with the option to add different coloring, I can better coordinate a desired look).  I’ll more than likely go Nameless, but I wanted to mention the CB option, since they’re close in price and because titanium is one of the more exotic materials to use.

Turbo Blankets – We Know the Pros, But What About the Cons?

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A week or so ago, I bought a used Perrin turbo blanket ($50), thinking that I’d use it instead of having to buy an aftermarket heat shield when I install my CNT downpipe.  I did not want to have to modify the stock heat shield (cutting is involved, which would make the heat shield less effective).

So, I’ve been doing a lot of research, trying to determine if there are any real consequences in using a turbo blanket.  The premise of using a turbo blanket is to keep the radiant heat of the turbo inside the hot side of the turbocharger, which would make the heat stream more effective.  A possible consequence would be that the resulting heat would put the heat level outside the normal heat range of the hot side of the turbocharger, which could cause premature failure of the turbocharger.  Another possible consequence would be that the additional heat could cause an engine that was recently stopped to coke any oil that is in the cooling system on the hot side of the turbocharger (this could be debunked due to the fact that modern turbochargers usually are cooled by both oil and water, such is the case for GR/GV Subaru STIs).

My finding is that there is no solid evidence that a turbo blanket will kill your turbocharger.  Turbochargers are built to take very large measurements of heat, so adding a heat blanket should not overburden the turbocharger.  Heat also makes the turbocharging system more efficient (the more heat, the better the turbo reacts to the demand for boost).

The main reason I want to use a heat blanket is so that my IC won’t be heat-soaked, since it is above the turbocharger (it is top-mounted).  A heat-soaked IC would more than likely cause a pull in timing during the hot months of summer or in stop-go traffic, or even at local track events.

There’s a crap-ton of information regarding this topic and I can’t seem to find any solid consequence for using a turbo blanket, so I’m probably going to install my used example when I go to Stage 2.  I’m also going to buy a top-tier heat shield, and I’ve evaluated a couple here.

Also, note that I’m well aware that there are cheaper variants of this style of turbo blanket (PTP).  In doing my research, I also found that Perrin has allowed PTP the right to sell what is essentially a Perrin design (when I find that URL again, I’ll link it here).  As well, there are apparently new versions of these blankets.  They’re essentially made from ground lava rock, which allows these variants to retain heat more efficiently.

Nameless Performance Cold Air Intake Installed!

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If you remember, I received my Nameless Performance cold air intake a few weeks ago.   I didn’t plan to install my Nameless Performance cold air intake this weekend but I ended up doing just that.

I had a bit of a time trying to figure out how to remove the stock air box and how to install the new CAI.  Only two bolts hold the stock air box in place.  The bolts were difficult to reach but weren’t too difficult to remove.  It’s reinstalling the stock air box that might be troublesome, IMO, because rethreading those bolts back on might take awhile.

In hindsight, I think I probably would’ve been better off getting the Cobb SF intake and airbox.  I still might look into going that route, but I absolutely love the way the NP intake looks in my engine bay.  I sorta wish I’d been able to see the different color options (that wasn’t available when I ordered mine, but it’s on the NP product pages now….they’ve many color schemes depicted.

The install of the CAI wasn’t all that bad.  It’s a tight fit and the product uses the same mount points as the stock equipment, although you have to remove a bracket.  I had to search on the web for a picture of a mounted NP CAI to see how to mount it.  It comes with no instructions.  Fortunately it didn’t take me all that long to figure out and install.  It took me 1.5 hours to install, but that’s only because I kept stopping to take pictures and video clips, and I kept double-checking my work (since I didn’t have instructions).

Here’s a picture of my extremely dirty stock air filter (I don’t think the dealer replaced it like I asked them 9 months ago and the car’s barely been driven since then).

 

 

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Here’s a shot of where the stock air box used to be:

 

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Here’s the close-out and MAF housing that I managed to figure out how to mount:

 

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Here’s where I mounted the MAF sensor (it only fits this way…I suggest you mount it before mounting the close-out…that way, you don’t end up dropping the little screws in the engine bay):

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Finished!

 

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I can now hear turbo spool-up…it is very noticeable.  I can also hear air rushing into the intake.

Note that this CAI requires a tune.  This unit is compatible with Cobb’s AEM maps.  I’m currently using the Cobb OTS Stage 1 91-octane AEM map.  I’ve logged a few miles with pulls included…the logs are kosher.

There’s a slight hesitation at throttle tip-in from idle.  It only happens from idle and it almost sounds like the throttle plate is fighting a vacuum, but I’m not sure that’s possible.  There’s no boost leak (I’m hitting peak boost without issue).  I’m trying to determine what’s going on.  I wonder if this is just a map issue that a tuner can tune out.

Oh, and here’s a video:

 

 

Nameless Performace CAI has arrived!

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This is the Nameless Performance cold air intake (CAI) that I ordered a month and three weeks ago.   I’ve been waiting for this a long time.  At first, I was upset because I thought that most of this was pre-built, but after making a complaint to Jason (of Nameless), he e-mailed me stating that they were almost done building it.  I did a mental double-take.  Then, when I received it, I got a good look at the craftsmanship…it’s good enough to where I can mount it over my fireplace (I’m not joking).  It’s almost a work of art.  The close-out is powder-coated.  If I’d have known it would look that good, I’d have maybe chosen another color.  I opted to have the MAF housing as black in color.  Overall, it looks great!

I’ll probably end up mounting it a week before my protune is scheduled.  No, this CAI doesn’t need a protune, as it is compatible with Cobb’s AEM OTS tunes (although, a protune would be more efficient/safer).    If I could, I’d get the car dyno’d and tuned before the parts are mounted and afterward, but I can’t/won’t.  I’m also still mulling over getting an e-tune.  I’ve a few e-tuners in mind, but will need to get the low RPM stumble fixed (there’s an online mod how-to here).

Do Cat-backs Add Power?

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Most people think that cat-back exhausts don’t offer substantial power.  When compared to a turbo-back exhaust, no, but axle-backs DO offer torque.  The thing is, most tuners don’t test for this and just make blatant assumptions.

Well, there’s at least one parts manufacturer that does test axlebacks:  Nameless Performance.

Here’s what I saw a year ago on their Facebook page:

 

Post by Nameless Performance, Inc.

 

That car gained 30 ft-lb of torque.  That’s rather significant, especially considering that this car wasn’t tuned…they just bolted on a catback and dyno’d it!  And if you haven’t looked at the comments within that FB post, take a look:

FB User:  Wow…that’s a very good gain for just a catback! And without a tune! Says a lot about the stock parts…LOL! Nameless should post that up at IWSTI, because all I ever hear there is that catback exhausts don’t add performance. Now, will GRs have a similar gain? I’ve the axleback…makes me want to replace some more bits.

Nameless Performance, Inc.:  Well that’s some bs from what we’ve seen on our design – unless there is some serious shortcoming on other companies exhausts. I know our downpipe thumps on the competition for torque gains, but this was just a cbe with a stock downpipe and no tune. Will have more data forthcoming on full turboback with OTS S2 as well as our specific OTS S2 tune for these cars. Think we can hit 70ft lb? We shall see.  Downpipe goes on tomorrow.

FB User:  I’m quite happy with the CBE results, since I’m currently trying not to mod the engine. Maybe the other companies exhausts DO have shortcomings, but you guys just proved to me that, sometimes, internet forums are a crock of shit. I’m sure you can hit 70 ft/lb, because you’re almost halfway there already!

Nameless Performance, Inc.:  Yeah I mean the total numbers on this CBE for peak HP gain are 12hp, but we make 17hp at 3100RPM and 29.5 ft lb at the same RPM range. I honestly think it’s a situation where CBE manufacturers don’t do the testing for the most part, so they don’t have any information to share which leads to people having to assume low power gains due to no advertised dyno results. I do think this one is particularly good, however.

Also:

FB User: How much gain on a 2011 wrx full catback ?

Nameless Performance, Inc.:  32ft lb / 22hp at the wheels for the ’11 Full Catback. That was dyno’d with a stage 1 ots tune for the baseline and no deviation from that tune on the equipped with cbe pull. This testing on the GD is stock vs. add CBE.

I thought I’d posted about this before, but I couldn’t find the post.  It may’ve predated this blog.  I also thought I’d seen a post referring to axle-back gains, but I’m still looking for that one (took me 50 minutes to find the first one).

Lots of Knock!

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A few days ago, it got warm enough to where I wanted to go to a car meet.  I took the car (of course) and ran logs on the way out.  I also ran logs today when driving to a doctor’s appointment.  Well…I saw lots of knock…WTF.  The only thing I can think of that’s causing it is bad gas (I filled up on Friday…those logs were partially clear).  Thinking on it now, it could also be the fact that the weather is warmer…warm enough to have heat-soak (which could contribute to knock on the OTS Stage 1 tune).

I got scared enough to where I unmarried the AP…it may stay unmarried until I’m ready for a protune.   While the DAM was still 1.0, the knock was very prevalent (finke knock learn, actually, which pulled timing quite a bit in some instances) .  I’ll see if I can post the logs.

EDIT – The logs are here.

UPDATE – I think this might have been a combination of bad gas and the fact that the engine was loaded and in top gear. No, I wasn’t lugging the engine, nor was I boosting significantly in 6th, but I was in 6th with light load and running the AC, which the 93-octane Stage 1 OTS tune doesn’t like. When I went to the Stage 1 91-octane OTS tune, it stopped. I’m still running the 91-octane Stage 1 tune.

Fix for STI Stumble

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So, there’s a thing called the ‘stumble’, where there’s a fueling issue that causes an STI engine to falter or lean-out.  In some cases, it is noticeable, especially when getting tuned.  Some tuners can tune it out while other can’t/won’t.

There are several fixes:  1) using an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator; 2) using an aftermarket fuel rail; 3) extending a fuel line.  The below links describe how to perform #3.  As well, after doing fix #3, it is advised to use Cobb’s Accesstuner (if you don’t have it, you can request it from Cobb at this link) to modify your TGV tables (as they were modified by Cobb to compensate for the stumble)…the first URL below explains how to do it.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/254372-fuel-line-extension-stumble-fix-mod.html

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/250449-parts-needed-installing-longer-fuel-line-stock-fpr-hard-line.html

I do plan to do this as soon as I can.  It shouldn’t take any more than 20 minutes and shouldn’t cost any more than $20 in material.   I plan to do this before I get protuned.

Note that this only affects later model STIs (2008-2014)…it does not affect the WRX or other models.

Mishimoto Cold Air Intake for 2008-2014 STI

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subaru-wrx-sti-performance-air-intake-2008-2014-39

http://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-wrx-sti-performance-air-intake-08-14.html

This cold air intake (CAI) is a bit different than that’s currently on the market for the GR/GV STIs.  What’s different?  Your vehicle doesn’t need to be tuned for it to be used on your car, nor does it need to used with a Cobb AP OTS tune.  In most cases, CAIs for Subarus are not plug-n-play.  So when I saw the above URL posted within the IWSTI forums, I immediately had questions, such as ‘how did they do this?’.

Here is an engineering writeup of the product (by Mishimoto engineers).  It is actually pretty thorough.  Another cool fact is that it can still be protuned for further gains.  Mishimoto claims,

The maximum gain achieved was about 25 hp and 24 tq at around 5300 rpm, with a peak gain of 12.7 hp and 2 tq. These results are very good for such an easy part to swap out. Increases on average through the power band measured around 20 hp and 18 tq, which would certainly be noticeable to the driver.

Additional notes regarding the air/fuel ratio of a car with this particular CAI:

The Mishimoto CAI follows the stock AFR as the car builds its boost. Once the engine reaches 4000 rpm the car is under full boost, as seen when the Mishimoto CAI starts to differ from the stock unit. The maximum AFR reached was about 11.7:1, but on average the Mishimoto CAI runs about 11.3:1 when under full boost. The stock AFR maxed out at about 11:1 and averaged about 10.5:1 when under full boost. These numbers were consistent throughout multiple runs, which assured the engineers that this CAI can be used every day without harming the engine.

Looks-wise, I like the Nameless Performance CAI better, even though that particular unit still needs a Cobb AP to be used (it can be used with any map that supports the AEM CAI).  Pricing between the NP and Mishimoto CAIs are also very similar.  The NP CAI is $299 and has an arsenal of color choices of the closeout and MAF housing.  The Mishimoto CAI is $313 and only offers 3 colors of the intake piping.

I’m not sure which offers better gains on OTS tuning, but I don’t think you can go wrong with either solution.

Wrapped DP!

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So, I finally found a local place (Advance Auto) that carried the wrap and supporting items. I spent the last few hours wrapping the DP. It had me cussing the whole time, mainly because it was difficult to wrap the cat because of the way it expands beyond the diameter of the pipe and then tapers back down. Starting the wrap was easy, but around the cat and the end part of the wrap…JEEZ. I ended up just tucking it. I left the excess on the end and will trim it off tomorrow.

I used plastic ties to hold the wrap in place. I’ll either remove them after the paint dries or let them melt off after installing the DP.

Again, I know that it’s a no-no to wrap a cat. I really don’t have any choice and I’ll continue trying to figure out how to protect the CV boot. If I discover how to do protect the boot, I’ll remove the wrap…since I’m spray-paining over the wrap, it should protect the pipe under the wrap.

Mod Dilemma

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So, I explained my woes with the downpipe that I recently purchased.  I’ve got all my parts and can begin installing them at any time, but I still have to decide how to deal with the catalytic converter being so close to the CV axle boot.  I do not yet have any exhaust wrap and still don’t want to wrap the cat.  I’m still mulling over how to deal with shielding the boot.  I’m pondering if I should find some heat reflecting material that will keep the heat off the boot, by covering the boot.  Something like this:

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 I figure that I can use hose clamps to seal the ends of the heat-wrapped boot.  I won’t know much more until I  spend a bit of time under the car.

I also need either some ramps or two more jack stands (maybe both, but at least the ramps.  Also, I need to get my ’98 Honda Accord out of the garage so that I can install the Stage 2 parts on the STI, in the garage.  That means I need to get the Honda fixed (I’m looking at $1000 in repairs since it’s been sitting awhile (motor mount needs to be replaced, rear brake rotors/pads need to be replaced, and the engine is sputtering, which could be bad fuel, plugs, both, or something else entirely…I did check to see that no mice had made nests in the airbox, so that’s good).

So, I may need to hold off on my build until my Accord is fixed.  That’s the smart thing to do, as I’ll have a spare car in case I botch something on the STI or even if I break a ringland (but I also have the motorcycle).  So, next week, I’m going to see if I can get the Accord towed to the local shop and see if they can give me an estimate on repairs…the last quote I got was $550 and that was just for the motor mount and rear rotors/pads.

That also gives me time to talk with several local tuners.  Initially, I’d opted to have iAG tune my car, but I’m put off to the fact that they’re charging extra for a mandatory pre-dyno inspection, which is bullshit, IMO.  Their reasoning is that it will lessen/prevent cars breaking on the dyno (because time is money).  I understand what they’re trying to do, but my car is pretty much brand new.  It has no boost leaks (I checked via datalogs).  It doesn’t leak oil.  It runs fine.  The fluids are fine (I’ll have the oil changed before going to the tune).  The tune is already $500.  The pre-dyno inspection is another $100.  So, $600 to be tuned…$100 of that is because they insist on doing an inspection on a car that is basically new (16K miles on a 2011…yeah, pretty much new).  IMO, that’s nickling and diming every person being dyno’d.  As well, it’s almost an insult to me, because I maintain my car already.

I’ve also contacted two other tuners:  Mach V Motorsports and PTuning.  I’m gonna say right now that PTuning is expensive (more so than the others)…they’re also pushy and I don’t like the owner at all.  When I asked him via Facebook about if his shop required a pre-dyno inspection, he didn’t say if it was required, but kept saying it would benefit the owner of the car being dyno’d.  I told him that I already know my car will pass the checks and would rather opt out of it if I could.  He clammed up.  WTF.  It’s a yes or no question…answer it.  Now, Dan at Mach V was cool.  He assumed that I was more focused on the inspection than looking for a reputable tuner (that wasn’t the case and I explained to him that I’d rather not be “nickle and dimed”).  He stated that inspections aren’t required and left it at that.  He answered the question without a lot of dialog, which I liked.  Mach V has an open house tomorrow and I’ll visit them to get an idea of how the tuner dials in a car – I expect that tuners will want to know what I desire in a tune.  I want to make power and also be safe…let’s say mildly conservative.  Keep in mind that I don’t have upgraded fuel injectors, so they’ll probably be watching the injector duty cycles (850cc injectors will be added to my wish list).

So, Ptuning is off my list.  iAG, I’m not sure yet, because Rick stated that because his website didn’t list the pre-dyno checks requirement, he’d let me pay $50 for the inspection since I went out of my way to get clarification.  So, it’s either iAG or Mach V.

The Accord is a big hindrance right now, though…if I can get that fixed within 30 days, I’ll be very happy and can then move on with my Stage 2 project.