Tag Archives: STI

Upcoming STI Hatch?

http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2014/09/subaru-wrx-hatchback-spied-testing.html

001-subaru-wrx-hatch-mule628opt

There’s a bit of an uproar today.  Why?  A mule of what’s apparently a VA-series STI hatch has been spotted.  What’s the uproar about?  Well, it’s two-fold.

  1. A hatch version was speculation.  The current WRX and STI line-up consists only of sedan models.
  2. “WTF?!  It’s ugly!”…people don’t understand that mules rarely look like the production models.  The same exact thing happened with the sedan’s mule spotting (WTF?! It’s ugly!).  They also saw the WRX concept and did the exact same thing:  they let their emotions and the pre-production viewings get the better of them…their expectations ran amuck.

I’m not a hatch guy, so I’m fine with the current sedan model, but I’ll wait until a production photo is released for the hatch before I judge it.

Additional links:

Automobile Magazine – WRX/STI Hatch Spied (added 9/2/2014 @ 6:14PM EST)

Motor Trend – Subaru WRX/STI Hatch (added 9/2/2014 @ 7:14PM EST)

You can read more comments of the mule below and at the above URL’s comment section.  Also, here’s a few comments on the IWSTI forums.

 

A New AWD Offering?


http://blog.caranddriver.com/2016-ford-focus-rs-awd-back-on-the-table-u-s-sales-more-likely-than-ever/

http://www.roadandtrack.com/go/future-cars/2016-ford-focus-rs-first-details-exclusive-insider-info

http://www.roadandtrack.com/go/future-cars/ford-denies-nothing-about-focus-rs-says-its-doable

I wanted to get all of the embedding and linkage out of the way first, as there is a lot of reference material, and I don’t even have reference info from Motor Trend or Automobile.

My thoughts? These are speculation articles, but R&T does have some communication from Ford regarding this car.

Is it a threat to existing cars of it’s genre? It’s too early to tell, but there’s a void to be filled (the Mitsubishi Evolution X). The playing field is being redefined, as well, because the upcoming Golf R is supposed to be a stellar offering and may well surpass the Subaru WRX STI in performance (or at least make Subaru concerned).

The early planning of the Focus RS dictated that the car would be front-wheel-drive. That has changed as of yesterday. It is definitive that the car will be AWD. We do not yet know how much HP the 2.3L turbocharged 4-cylinder will produce, but speculation is between 300-350 HP. We also do not know if the car will be definitively sold in the US, although the articles state that there’s a strong possibility. We also don’t know it’s proposed pricing, although a car that is designed to compete with the Golf R and/or Subaru STI will probably be similarly priced as those two cars. Word is, the Focus RS will also be a limited production vehicle, which may warrant a premium price (I’m not sure on this, but its worth mentioning). Will the car be a 4 door hatch? More than likely, if Ford wants to compete well with the other cars of this genre.

Other questions: Will the car have good value retainment? STIs hold their value extremely well. I can’t speak for Golf R owners (the Mk 7 isn’t yet released to the US public). Will the car be reliable? Will the car be expensive to maintain? It may be good to ask a Focus ST owner those two questions, since the RS will be new to the US.What of modifying the RS? Does Ford condone modifying Focus STs as far as warranty is concerned? Are the cars difficult to modify? Is the aftermarket as vast as Subaru’s? If anyone has answers to those questions, please comment!

Subaru STI & Fuel Consumption


I thought this was a pretty cool read. I’ve been seeing a lot of guys complaining about the fuel consumption of their STIs lately…I’m wondering if it’s due to the influx of “new blood” (ie, owners that are new to sports cars and have just purchased an STI) or hipster activists (which Subaru tends to attract). But the gist of the article is, why buy a sports car of this caliber and complain about it’s fuel consumption?

I decided to embed the Google+ post vs. posting the URL…it’s more eye-catching.

Enjoy the read!

Standing Mile: 2015 STI and 2014 Porsche Cayman

I saw the below on Google+, posted by Automobile Magazine.

Note that these two cars aren’t really comparable (they both use horizontally-opposed engines but it’s a stretch to think that they’re related in any sense). As well, the STI’s AWD advantage is nullified by the fact that this is a standing mile competition…the distance is far too long for AWD to be a definitive factor. Also, even though the Cayman is down 25 HP, it weighs 300-lb less while also being 2-wheeled, which means there’s less parasitic drivetrain loss (more of its power is making it to the ground in comparison to the STI).

These two cars only have one thing in common: horizontally-opposed engines. Well, there’s one other thing they share…they both ran the exact same standing mile completion time.

It’s fun to watch as long as the viewers realize that neither of these two cars are designed for drag racing.

Flow-matched Fuel Injectors

If you’ve ever done research into upgrading your fuel injectors, and are looking for a used set, you’ll occasionally see someone saying, “make sure they’re flow-matched”.

Were you ever curious as to what that means?

Look at this video:

In the above video, initially, the spray pattern is being observed, with the injector on the far right turned sideways to see the spray pattern at a different angle.  These are Subaru WRX injectors (so said the author).  The injectors are being run at different RPMs and are not yet clean.  At the end of the observation, the injectors were statically tested.  At the end of that test, 3 of the injectors were flowing 95-96cc while one was flowing 92cc.  3 are within flow specification while the other is not.  His plan is to apply a 20-minute ultrasonic soak to the set in the hopes that the injector with the lower flow will increase it’s flow (the soak would probably clean out any build-up/gunk in the injector).

The above video shows the results of an ultrasonic cleaning and a back-wash to remove any build-up within the injectors from the first video.  Notice that after the static flow test, the injector with the hangup now has a measurement of 96cc, matching at least 2 of the other injectors (the last one is still at 97cc but is probably within spec).

Yes, I saw that he quoted the measurement of the 2nd injector being 92cc in the first video and 93cc in the second video.  Probably a (small) gaff on his part.

I thought these two videos were pretty cool.  I’m a geek like that!

I found the videos while trying to find videos on how to perform an injector swap on GR/GV STIs.

Oh, and by the way, going big on injectors….requires a tune.  The stock ECU cant calibrate itself to adjust for larger injectors — source is here, under the “Questions” tab, and is the answer to Question #3.

Air Oil Separators – Not All Created Equal

I’m thinking on adding an air oil separator (AOS) to my wishlist.  It’ll help keep the oil out of my IC and intake and keep the car from experiencing detonation by preventing any condensation from making it into the engine. There are arguments on if this item is even needed on a Subaru (or any blown) engine (see here). There’s quite a bit of AOS makers, too.  I’m going to link each one, but keep in mind that the links may break as the web designers move their products around their web pages:

  • Grimmspeed – this appears to quickly-installed product, but I’ve seen bad reviews of it; there are conditions that will cause blow-by, even with this AOS.
  • Moroso – this is a small dual can variant – $275; they have $350+ variants as well as variants that are $100 less.
  • Perrin – this is a nice unit; I like the fact that I could theoretically pull the drain hoses and see what the oil condition looks like after it has worked its way through the separation process.
  • Crawford – from their website: “Largest internal volume (.75 liters) on the market. This volume is imperative to the effective separation of the oil from the air.”
  • iAG – they’ve a LOT of science-like info on their site regarding this product, but I’m not sure that will be enough to sway me.

I may have missed a few, but those are the ones that jump out at me.  Plus, it seems like the aftermarket is flooded with tuner interpretations of the AOS concept. Note that almost all of them are in the $350-$375 range.  That’s a lot of cash, but apparently they aren’t all created equal. Grimmspeed’s doesn’t work all that well on engines that crank out 350-400 HP, but it’s cheaper than most of the others.  Apparently, they don’t take well to high G maneuvers and they also tend to be more of a street application (low HP and street with no hard street driving).  There have been reports of significant blow-by occurring with the Grimmspeed AOS.  I found a good NASIOC forum thread here that describes this issue and even has Grimmspeed feedback. Crawford’s and Perrin’s apparently work very well on high HP applications. The Moroso AOS appears to also be a good candidate and has many options.  They come in single and dual container configurations.  With the dual container option, you can opt for large or small containers.  The containers can be obtained with powder-coating too.  The thing I’m confused about with the Moroso is that they appear to be more of a catch-can solution.  They will not direct separated oil back into the oil supply.  They have to be periodically emptied and the from my understanding, the they don’t really separate the oil from condensation…the gunk is really something you don’t really want to reintroduce to your oil supply. There’s also the thought that with the general thought behind the AOS concept, you shouldn’t really be redirecting separated oil back into your engine’s supply.  The thing is, these aren’t considered cat cans.  Catch cans just catch any blow-by that occurs.  They have to be maintained…you don’t want them to be full and you have to throw out any gunk they catch.  With an AOS, there’s a separation mechanism and the idea is that once the oil is separated and de-condensed, it should be OK to put back into the oil supply, but I’ve yet to see vendors/makers provide evidence that the oil that is separated is clean and can be reintroduced to the engine’s oil supply.  So, I’m torn between buying an AOS and buying a catch can that I’ll have to maintain. I’m leaning toward the iAG (one of the most expensive) or the Moroso (because it looks good and because it’s cheaper…but it’s just a glorifed catch can…I really don’t think they are true AOSs).  iAG swears that they’ve stopped the issue of condensation, but they haven’t provided any hard evidence.  I’d hate to spend $380 on an AOS (any AOS) only to find that they’re putting gathered gunk back into the engine. Oh, and what’s the difference between an AOS and catch can?  The AOS separates the oil from any condensation and returns the oil back to the oil supply.  A catch can only catches it, it has to be periodically emptied, and there may be more than oil that’s captured.  And note that there are some $300 catch cans.  That’s a pretty ridiculous price for a catch can but apparently Mishimoto sells catch cans in that price range. Lastly, for those located in areas where there are strict emissions testing, an AOS might not be a good thing.  Remember, not only are there visual inspections that some states require (an AOS might not pass a visual), but there’s also the actual sniffing/testing…an AOS might cause a test failure.  I’m not 100% but I wanted to forewarn people, because the PCV is an emissions part.

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UPDATE: Regarding the Moroso, I did a bit more research and found some clarification on the Moroso unit (regarding if it’s a catch can or actual AOS):

Q:  The title says it’s an Air Oil Separator, but the description sounds more like it’s an Oil Catch Can since it has to be drained. Which is it?

A:  Its a separator in terms of it breaks down the fumes much more efficiently compared to just a catch can.

If that’s the case, then the oil that it catches can be poured back into the oil supply (sounds like, at least).  I found the answer here, under Questions (it is the second question…the questions aren’t linkable).  And note that these do indeed require maintenace (ie, they have to be periodically drained/cleaned).  Some variants have drain petcocks, and others can be removed from the mount.

STI: Hatch vs. Sedan

OK, so even though the WRX and STI are no longer offered in hatch form, there’s still infighting going on in the Subaru world regarding what’s the better offering:  hatches or sedans.  Here’s my take on things.  Note that this isn’t meant to offend.  If you’ve thick skin, please understand that this is just an opposing opinion…the internet is full of such things.

Now, the key word that hatch owners throw out is practicality.  What is practicality without relating to a Merriam-Webster’s definition?  It relates to utility, usability, and “all-around” (as in jack-of-all-trades).  For those that want the true definition, you can see it here.

I’m going to throw out a few thoughts on practicality:

  • Practicality is only important if you care about it (ie, it is a subjective issue).
  • For a lot of people, practicality isn’t really a requirement.
  • Jacks-of-all-trade type of cars are best at nothing…practicality means compromising.
  • If I wanted true practicality, I wouldn’t be looking at a performance car.

There’s far more to a practical car than having space.  That’s why I got a sedan.  Before I got the STI, I had a quad cab truck…you can’t get any more practical than that, IMO.  I associate practicality with being frugal.  Again, the key words are utility, usability, and “all-around”.  I’ve said this before: I grew up one step from being dirt poor and I’ve always pinched my pennies, so I actually know what practicality is.  It means something different than what most Scoobie owners are thinking when using the word, for sure.  I was so bad with the practicality mindset that I’ve always had problems buying performance cars…if I bought them, they’d have to be low-priced in the extreme, because practicality surely has a money factor…most people don’t relate practicality with a $400 car note, for example.  I had to force myself out of that mindset when I bought the STI, otherwise I’d have never bought even the hatch version.  I never thought of getting a hatch for additional space.  I initially considered the hatch only because it looked better designed (the back end flows better with the rest of the car…that’s not so with the sedan, IMO).

If I’m looking for truly practical cars, I’m probably not going to be looking at a car with a mid-$30K price tag that gets 16-17 MPG in the city and requires a tire swap in snowy/icy/cold weather, $100 oil change services, and other expensive periodical maintenance (from my understanding, brake rotors are NOT cheap, for example) because it takes a lot more than extra space to be considered practical, IMO. Insurance prices for these cars surely isn’t anywhere near practical. None of what I mention hints at practicality.

These are just my opinions, though. I fully expect someone to be offended by this because that tends to be the nature of the interwebz and Scoobie hatch owners tend to be overly sensitive about such things.  I mean no insult by this, but if people are willing to put out their thoughts on why hatches are better, they should expect to receive an opposing opinion and be able to accept a different view of things.

Rally Sport Direct’s 2015 WRX & STI Review

I’m going to let this video speak for itself, but Rally Sport Direct (RSD) has both a 2015 WRX and a 2015 STI that they’ve recently reviewed.  The review is more off-the-cuff in nature (it is not a technical review by any means). They’re also a good vendor to purchase parts from, too.

Without further delays, here it is!

 

Shift Knobs

If you’ve an STI or WRX, I’m sure you’ve either looked at or purchased aftermarket shift knobs (or even purchased SPT versions).

Here are a few that appear to be worthwhile to own.

http://fastwrx.com/kadeshkn.html (in fact, Mach V has a crapload)

http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/DelrinShiftKnob.htm (5 listed here)

I’ve a very heavy Razo knob that I used in my Eagle Talon awhile back, but the threads are different between the cars, so I can’t use it in the STI.  I might find a new one and mount it in my car, though.

The cool thing about Delrin is that it won’t get hot or cold like metallic knobs typically do (but I tend to like metallic knobs better).

There’s also Flossy knobs, but I will not link them.  Flossy shift knobs are highly desired, but I wouldn’t order one directly from the vendor, because customer service sucks to the point that you might not ever get your knob (it’s a crap shoot).  If you want a Flossy, I recommend you check for For Sale ads on Craigslist or your favorite Subaru forum F/S threads.  Order directly at your own risk.

Do you have a favorite shift knob?  If so, share the maker/model!