Category Archives: Mods

Automotive Modifications

So, I did this thing…

What did I do this weekend?

I traded the STI for a 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.

I now have all these parts to sell but need to spend some time trying to appropriately price them.  I still have the winter wheels (OEM) and tires (new Blizzaks), a CNT catted downpipe that’s never been installed, a Cobb AP (unmarried), a Nameless cold air intake (was installed a few years but is near perfect), and a few other things (turbo blanket, EBCS, Walbro fuel pump).

The funds I receive for those parts will go to Jeep parts!

I was considering another STI but didn’t want to buy one and see Subaru release an engine revision soon after.  I also considered a Golf R, but quickly gravitated to the Wrangler instead.  I briefly looked at Focus RSs but for some reason, I’m not attracted to them, regardless of 350HP.

Oh, I got $17,500 for my 2011 STI.  That’s a healthy down payment.  That’s the highest offer I’ve received from a dealer (I’ve seen $14K and $16K).  The car had 44K miles and had wear and tear associated with a 7 year old car. It had 3 door dings and some chipped paint on the hood.  KBB quoted me $18.5K and $19.5K a week later.  I think I did well enough.  This is the value power of STIs.  If I’d had a different brand, especially domestic, they would’ve given me maybe half that.  This is the main reason I decided to go Wrangler…they’ve more value power than even STIs.

The car was stock when I turned it in (that was mandatory for me to do…I was not going to shaft the next owner).  Before I returned it to stock, it only had the Cobb OTS stage 1 with AEM intake tune and the Nameless cold air intake.  Was easy enough to put it back to stock…would’ve been a bit more difficult if I’d added those other parts like I’d planned.

Anyways, I’ll keep this site up for now and I may occasionally post about WRXs or other sports cars.

Cobb Tuning – They Dyno’d a Ford Focus RS!

The above was a Cobb Tuning live video session that occurred today.

They dyno’d a Ford Focus RS.  The car was stock.  In fact, they dyno’d it four times.  The first two pulls were with the stock tune.  The latter two pulls were with a Cobb AP tune (stage 1).

The guy in the video stated that he’d heard that a lot of people were thinking the car was overrated from the factory and that they wanted to test to see if it was true.

[SPOILER ALERT – Stop reading now if you’d like to watch the video to see the results!]

Well, the first two pulls netted 301 WHP and 340 lb-ft of torque.  The last two pulls netted 313 WHP and 360 lb-ft of torque.

Now, my concern is that current RS owners say they aren’t getting full boost on a consistent basis (ie, they’re not getting the full power on demand, every time they run the car hard).  Yes, different atmospheric  conditions will dictate how well the car runs, but if your car is only generating 250 WHP when you want the full Monte, that’s a problem.  The cars are probably dialing back boost when ambient temps are high.  The Cobb test car was run in Texas, where it’s in the low to mid 90s today.  The dyno testing didn’t see any anomalies but their testing isn’t what the mag publishers’ test numbers are showing.  The mag publishers are showing discrepancies (the cars are not generating what it should, HP-wise).

Cobb needs to test more, IMO.  Or maybe they don’t care enough to investigate further…after all, it isn’t their problem.

Regarding the HP numbers of the dyno runs, the car saw rather significant gains when going stage 1, but this car is already putting out serious amounts of power.  How much more before the car either stops generating nothing but heat (or a thrown rod or cracked piston)?

Subaru Knock Monitoring – Cobb Tuning

I read Cobb Tuning’s Facebook postings and saw the following the other day:  http://www.cobbtuning.com/subaru-knock-monitoring-and-dit-knock-logic-changes/

Most people that have turbocharged Subarus and either have a Cobb Accessport or want one always ask how does one monitor for knock.  I’ve elaborated on this in the past (here) but the information in the link comes straight from the source!

Excerpt:

Detonation events are inevitable and will occur from time to time on any modern vehicle running on pump gas.  Your car is built to recognize these events and take the appropriate action to defend against them causing any damage.  The Subaru knock detection system tends to err on the side of caution.  This makes it common to see “false knock.”  False knock occurs when the ECU corrects for a knock event but the noise registered is due to other noises that aren’t necessarily detonation or harmful to the engine.  This often happens accelerating from a stop while letting the clutch out, during gear shifts (more so if grunting while shifting), accelerating at low RPM in a high gear, under cruise on the freeway, and during abrupt throttle changes.

Read the rest at the above hyperlink.  Enjoy!

New Winter Tires

I ordered Bridgestone Blizzak LM-32s last month, but it took me 3 weeks to get my OEM wheels to the shop to have the tires mounted on them.

They look good, too!  I can’t wait for the first snow (or hint of real cold weather).

Bridgestone Blizzak LM-32s in 235-40R-18 size

Bridgestone Blizzak LM-32s in 235-40R-18 size

Bridgestone Blizzak LM-32s in 235-40R-18 size mounted on OEM STI wheels

Bridgestone Blizzak LM-32s in 235-40R-18 size mounted on OEM STI wheels

I’ve retired my ASA JH3 wheels (with mounted Michelin Alpin PA2s).  I wanted to go 18″ for my winter tires (so that I could use my OEM wheels).

The ASAs are now for sale…whoever buys them will have to get new tires, as the Alpins are dry-rotting.  No, the ASAs are not pretty, but I never bought them for that.  I bought them because they were cheap (they were 2nd-hand) and I’m not about to buy Volks as winter wheels (why would I do that?).  The ASAs served their purpose.  I’m sure they’ll look attractive enough for someone that’s new to Subarus (like I was).

Color-changing LED Turn Signal Bulbs for 2008-2014 WRXs & STIs

These LEDs are pretty cool. It solves the issue of wanting white LED turn signal bulbs but also wanting to stay legal (not having orange turn signals is illegal in many (if not all) states).

The link to order these bulbs is here.

They are normally $59.99 a pair, though. Note that they’re currently marked down to $49.99 for the normal set and $79.99 for the mega-bright set(as of 9/4/2014).

UPDATE:  Note that if you use these LEDs, you’re going to need an LED-capable blinker relay…that’s the case with any upgrade to LEDs.  It can be found here (same site).  The price is $19.99, as of 10/7/2014.

It might be time to update the wish list!

Please Don’t Defraud Subaru of America!

Read the following thread today:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-general/272848-13-sti-cyl-4-missfire-other-problems-need-help.html

Read it and see why I have a problem with it.

Basically, the OP stated that he’s at stage 2+, has 20K miles on the car and the car is exhibiting symptoms of cracked ringlands.  Some responders tell him how to check for further symptoms (smoke coming from oil cap opening).  Smoke was exiting the opening.  In the next post, the guy states that he has his car on a flatbed and it’s on the way to the dealer.  He states he’s reverted back to the stock tune (and that the dealer also stated he should do this).

Wow.  I see these at least once a week on the forums.  Some guys end up pannicking when they realize that Subaru of America (SoA) sometimes correlates such posts to real-life people and deny the claims.

IMO, issues such as these constitutes fraud.  I’m a firm believer in “pay to play”.  People who can’t afford to fix their car because they took it beyond the limits of Subaru’s design should not modify their cars.  Shit like this is what makes it difficult for the guys with real/legit repair issues to get them fixed.  Also, someone has to pay for the fraudulent claim (and it’s usually not the dealer nor SoA)…it’s usually other Subaru owners (the dealer spreads the cost to all Subaru owners by raising costs of other services).

I hate crap like this!

EDIT:  here’s one from last week (pay attention to post 6)

Firmware updates for ALL Subaru Accessports!

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/cobb-accesstuner/271467-firmware-updates-all-subaru-accessports.html

I like leveraging IWSTI forum posts (because I spend a good bit of time reading and posting there).

Cobb has updated the firmware for all Subaru APs.  The notes are below:

Fast Logging for ALL Subaru Accessports!!

We’ve improved datalogging rates for all Subaru Accessports. This includes V2, V2b, and V3 units and all Subaru Accessport part numbers.

V2 and V2b units will now see improvements in excess of 300% over previous datalogging rates. V3 Accessports will see nearly 250% higher resolution.


OTS Map Updates!!

2008-2014 STI v334 Map Updates

  • Revised Engine Load Compensation tables to address potentially high absolute values in the A/F Learning “C” range.
  • Activated new toggle to induce Per-Gear Timing Compensations for 6th gear.
  • Eliminated factory “Fuel Enrichment Ramping” behavior that caused temporarily lean conditions following shifts while driving aggressively.


2002-2007 WRX v310 Map Updates

  • Massive update for Stage1 and Stage2 mapping. Includes refinements to boost control and overall ignition timing strategy.
  • Added Stage1 and Stage2 support for COBB Electronic Boost Control Solenoid (EBCS).


2009-2014 WRX v331 Map Updates

  • Synchronized mapping across all model years.
  • Implemented Per-Gear Timing compensations.
  • Reshaped Boost Targets table for better control at higher RPM which reduces need for Severe Low Wastegate (SLWG mapping).
  • Removed SLWG maps from map offering
  • Revised odd factory Per-Cylinder Injector Pulsewidth tables
  • Updated Primary OL Fuel tables.
  • Revised ignition timing tables based on power and detonation concerns.
  • Many minor adjustments (changed per-cylinder timing compensations slightly, disabled trims based on rear O2 sensor, revised closed loop fuel target at idle, etc.).


For access to updated features, simply connect your Accessport to Accessport Manager and perform a firmware update!

For any other questions, feel free to email support@cobbtuning.com or submit a support ticket at cobbtuning.com/support

The coolest part?  The increase in datalogging rates — 300% for pre-v3 APs and 250% for v3s!!  What does that mean?  Better (quicker) logging!  That means better quality datalogs!

WRX / STI parts of interest

Here are a few parts of interest that have recently caught my eye:

Killer B Equal Length Headers

Killer B Motorsports WRX / STi Holy Header

Killer B Radiator Shroud & Alternator Cover (pictured respectively below)

alt-shroud

 

The headers are the big ticket item (close to $1500).  That might be attainable next year but I won’t be able to pull that one off any time soon.  The radiator shroud and alternator cover might be easier to get ahold of, though, although I like JNA’s version of the alternator shroud better (they also come in different colors):

 

Your thoughts?

Cobb AccessPort – How do you use yours?

I’m a member of several large WRX/STI sites/forums and while I lurk on every one but IWSTI, I read a lot between them all (and sometimes subscribe to those that attract my attention).

I’ve noticed a trend with Cobb AP usage.  With version 3 out now, people are using the AP as a gauge (or a set of gauges).  That’s OK, but I don’t think the unit was designed to replace an actual boost gauge and I’m pretty sure the mechanical gauges will always be more accurate.  I guess it’s OK to use the AP in that capacity, but it can be dangerous if you’re depending on it in that capacity.  It’s one thing to use it while knowing that it may not be 100% accurate…it’s another to think or assume it’s the better tool, because it isn’t.

As well, I’m also noticing a trend where people will use the AP as gauges and monitor real-time in lieu of logging events via the datalog feature.  This thread in particular highlights this problem.  That is definitely dangerous and here’s why:  Monitoring gauges real-time isn’t really real-time if you’re not watching them (you’re not going to be able to watch them and drive at the same time…you might think you can, but you can’t).  Now, under each virtual gauge, there are areas that monitor the lowest and highest measurement of that particular gauge.  Let’s say you’re trying to watch the Fine Knock Learn (FKL) gauge while driving.  You eventually look at the AP and see that while you weren’t looking at the gauges, the AP logged an FKL event.  The counter under the gauge shows the value of, for example, 1.35.  The thing is, you don’t know if it counted that once, or many times while you weren’t looking at the gauge.  Also, this also tends to create a false sense of security because you’re thinking, “oh, there was only one event” when there could’ve been 20 while you weren’t looking.  One measurement showing within the peak value field does not mean there’s nothing to worry about.  That one measurement could be happening more than once.  Very rarely do I actually see an FKL event showing within the AP gauge as it occurs (that’s only happened twice).  Now, if you’re datalogging as well as live-monitoring, that’s a different story.  The analogy that I used in a post at IWSTI is that live-monitoring is akin to reading Cliff Notes, while reading datalogs is akin to reading the actual book and not a summarization of the book.  Based on what I’ve been reading in the forums, people are using the AP’s live monitoring as the only method of monitoring.  I saw at least one guy today state that he has 70psi in cylinder #4 but when someone asked him to post logs awhile back, he didn’t have any, yet he stated that he saw knock events…it is assumed that he saw those knock events on his AP.  He never did post the logs but then posted he had a bad cylinder/piston/ringland.

Subaru owners will need to be extra diligent in following their cars’ maintenance schedules, datalogging (especially after filling up the tank with new gas), not beating up on the car when the engine is cold, ensuring the oil has the proper level, ensuring the oil is clean, ensuring the engine isn’t being lugged in a high gear (no flooring the engine in high gear or on inclines)…following those instructions can lessen engine damage, but logging is key, in my opinion.

Air Oil Separators – Not All Created Equal

I’m thinking on adding an air oil separator (AOS) to my wishlist.  It’ll help keep the oil out of my IC and intake and keep the car from experiencing detonation by preventing any condensation from making it into the engine. There are arguments on if this item is even needed on a Subaru (or any blown) engine (see here). There’s quite a bit of AOS makers, too.  I’m going to link each one, but keep in mind that the links may break as the web designers move their products around their web pages:

  • Grimmspeed – this appears to quickly-installed product, but I’ve seen bad reviews of it; there are conditions that will cause blow-by, even with this AOS.
  • Moroso – this is a small dual can variant – $275; they have $350+ variants as well as variants that are $100 less.
  • Perrin – this is a nice unit; I like the fact that I could theoretically pull the drain hoses and see what the oil condition looks like after it has worked its way through the separation process.
  • Crawford – from their website: “Largest internal volume (.75 liters) on the market. This volume is imperative to the effective separation of the oil from the air.”
  • iAG – they’ve a LOT of science-like info on their site regarding this product, but I’m not sure that will be enough to sway me.

I may have missed a few, but those are the ones that jump out at me.  Plus, it seems like the aftermarket is flooded with tuner interpretations of the AOS concept. Note that almost all of them are in the $350-$375 range.  That’s a lot of cash, but apparently they aren’t all created equal. Grimmspeed’s doesn’t work all that well on engines that crank out 350-400 HP, but it’s cheaper than most of the others.  Apparently, they don’t take well to high G maneuvers and they also tend to be more of a street application (low HP and street with no hard street driving).  There have been reports of significant blow-by occurring with the Grimmspeed AOS.  I found a good NASIOC forum thread here that describes this issue and even has Grimmspeed feedback. Crawford’s and Perrin’s apparently work very well on high HP applications. The Moroso AOS appears to also be a good candidate and has many options.  They come in single and dual container configurations.  With the dual container option, you can opt for large or small containers.  The containers can be obtained with powder-coating too.  The thing I’m confused about with the Moroso is that they appear to be more of a catch-can solution.  They will not direct separated oil back into the oil supply.  They have to be periodically emptied and the from my understanding, the they don’t really separate the oil from condensation…the gunk is really something you don’t really want to reintroduce to your oil supply. There’s also the thought that with the general thought behind the AOS concept, you shouldn’t really be redirecting separated oil back into your engine’s supply.  The thing is, these aren’t considered cat cans.  Catch cans just catch any blow-by that occurs.  They have to be maintained…you don’t want them to be full and you have to throw out any gunk they catch.  With an AOS, there’s a separation mechanism and the idea is that once the oil is separated and de-condensed, it should be OK to put back into the oil supply, but I’ve yet to see vendors/makers provide evidence that the oil that is separated is clean and can be reintroduced to the engine’s oil supply.  So, I’m torn between buying an AOS and buying a catch can that I’ll have to maintain. I’m leaning toward the iAG (one of the most expensive) or the Moroso (because it looks good and because it’s cheaper…but it’s just a glorifed catch can…I really don’t think they are true AOSs).  iAG swears that they’ve stopped the issue of condensation, but they haven’t provided any hard evidence.  I’d hate to spend $380 on an AOS (any AOS) only to find that they’re putting gathered gunk back into the engine. Oh, and what’s the difference between an AOS and catch can?  The AOS separates the oil from any condensation and returns the oil back to the oil supply.  A catch can only catches it, it has to be periodically emptied, and there may be more than oil that’s captured.  And note that there are some $300 catch cans.  That’s a pretty ridiculous price for a catch can but apparently Mishimoto sells catch cans in that price range. Lastly, for those located in areas where there are strict emissions testing, an AOS might not be a good thing.  Remember, not only are there visual inspections that some states require (an AOS might not pass a visual), but there’s also the actual sniffing/testing…an AOS might cause a test failure.  I’m not 100% but I wanted to forewarn people, because the PCV is an emissions part.

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UPDATE: Regarding the Moroso, I did a bit more research and found some clarification on the Moroso unit (regarding if it’s a catch can or actual AOS):

Q:  The title says it’s an Air Oil Separator, but the description sounds more like it’s an Oil Catch Can since it has to be drained. Which is it?

A:  Its a separator in terms of it breaks down the fumes much more efficiently compared to just a catch can.

If that’s the case, then the oil that it catches can be poured back into the oil supply (sounds like, at least).  I found the answer here, under Questions (it is the second question…the questions aren’t linkable).  And note that these do indeed require maintenace (ie, they have to be periodically drained/cleaned).  Some variants have drain petcocks, and others can be removed from the mount.