Category Archives: Mods

Automotive Modifications

Downpipe and Cobb AP have arrived!

So, my CNT catted downpipe  (from Cygnus Performance) arrived yesterday (Friday).  I did NOT know it was coming and was fortunately home when it arrived.

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Notice the placement of the cat.  I’m not sure I’m liking it’s position, because there have been complaints that the cat has melted the passenger-side CV boot, spilling CV grease everywhere (and at least a few instances of that grease catching fire from the cat’s heat).  The cat is big enough that it is less than an inch from the CV boot.  This isn’t the only brand that places the cat on the neck of the DP…Invidia does it, as well as a few other brands.  

So, I’ve three options to mitigate the heat of the cat from causing damage:

  1. Fabricate some type of heat shielding (doesn’t necessarily have to be a metal shroud-type of shield).
  2. Heat-wrap from the top of the neck to the bottom (wrapping the cat as well, since the cat is the main cause of the heat damage).
  3. Get a DP that has the cat near the tail.

Yes, heat-wrapping the cat can cause the cat to fail, but I’ve asked on IWSTI if anyone has ever had a cat fail because it was heat-wrapped…I got no answers.  I’d rather not heat-wrap the cat but I might not have a choice if I can’t find or fabricate a shield, because I’d rather melt the cat than melt a CV boot and damage the axle ($600 to replace) or even cause a grease fire.  I could also just sell the DP and use that money to get a better DP…I’d need $300 extra, though.  The CNT is priced at $369, which undercuts the higher-priced DPs with lower mounted cats by a good bit ($100-$250 more).  What I’m more than likely going to do is use the CNT (heat-wrapping the vertical part) and start putting money aside to get a Cobb catted DP when the CNT fails.

I’m also going to probably reinstall the stock mufflers.  Why?  Because, with the CNT DP, the current setup is going to be pretty loud (we’ll see).  My current setup consists of an axleback muffler delete system.  Without some type of muffler, the car will more than likely be loud since aftermarket DPs tend to be higher diameter and less restricting (the stock DP has two cats, I believe, which would probably help in masking sound).  I’ll run the stock mufflers until I can come up with an alternate solution (I very much want Nameless muffler replacements, but they’re around $400, much more than my Nameless axleback deletes).

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My Cobb AP v3 also arrived.  I purchased from Amazon.com and found cheaper pricing than at online tuning shops.  They typically sell them at $650, but I got mine for $639 and used the different for faster shipping…note that SKOOT LLC is selling them for $624, which is even cheaper than when I bought mine 2 weeks ago.

The AP is very nice…it should be, for $600+.  It is built well and comes with a good bit of accessories:  a USB cable for connecting to laptops to get map and firmware updates; a OBDII cable, a blue faceplate, a quick start guide, a mount, and two Cobb stickers….oh, and a case.

The unit itself has a screen that’s about the same size as an iPod.  It offers virtual gauges and you can configure it to show between 1 and 6 of them.  It also datalogs, displays any trouble codes, has launch control options, has a configurable shift light, and has Cobb’s off-the-shelf tuned maps for specific mods and fuel configurations.  The unit can be used while driving but isn’t required.

Now the only differences in capability between the v2 and v3 models is that with the v3 you can have more than one gauge up and running.  If you’ve a budget, you can still buy the v2 models…they still log data and can do pretty much everything the v3 can do.  If I really wanted to cut the budget, I could’ve just searched for a used v2, which I’ve seen as low as $350.

I’m still awaiting other parts to arrive, but I’ll begin to work on the heat-wrapping of the CNT this week and post pictures when I’ve finished.

LEDs for Subaru STIs?

 

If you like the clean light that LEDs produce, there are many places online that provide the proper parts for your particular make and model of car.

I initially bought LEDs from Precision LED but one of them burned out for some reason.

When I bought from Precision LED, I bought the following:

  • Interior Base Package (2 maplight bulbs, 1 dome bulb), Cool White (8000K)
  • License Plate LEDs (Qty: 2), Crystal White (6000K)
  • Trunk LED (Qty: 1), Crystal White (6000K)

I’ve ordered another (license plate LED), as well as an extra, but from a different place, SuperBright LEDs.  The particular type I ordered is here.  I’ve not yet compared the two bulbs.

If you’ve an STI and are interested in upgrading your bulbs to LEDs, here’s the STI parts that SuperBright LEDs has to offer:  http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/2011-subaru-wrx%20sti-sedan-/59-1140-37-/

EDIT:  So, I replaced the blown Precision LED bulb with the SuperBright LED and left the other Precision LED bulb in the housing, just to see if I could get a good comparison between the two.  The SB LED is a LOT brighter, so much so that I might have to put them both in, just so the lighting doesn’t look ‘off’.  I’ll see if I can capture it on video, but here’s an evening picture comparison, with the SB LED on the left, above the lighthouses:

Mods, mods, mods…

Today, after much mental debate and procrastination, I pulled the trigger on the parts/mods I’ll need to go Stage 2.

These are the parts I’ll be receiving soon:

Cobb AP v3
Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Nameless Intake
CNT Catted DP
3-inch Downpipe to Factory Cat-Back Exhaust Adapter

I’ll also need to get a new DP gasket, a flat 3″ exhaust gasket, a new donut gasket (the gasket that goes between the DP and midpipe), and longer bolts.

I’ve ordered everything but the EBCS and Walbro FP.  Once I’ve received everything, I’ll have my work cut out for me, because that fuel pump replacement is a 2 hour job at the very least.  The EBCS will be laid out the day before the protune (technically, I don’t need an EBCS, but it may make the tuner’s job easier, as well as making it easier to upgrade later on).  The DP will be installed the weekend before the tune, as well as the Nameless CAI.  Both of those can use the Cobb OTS tune that pertains to the Cobb DP and AEM CAI.

I still need to contact iAG to arrange a consultation and so they can tell me what I need for the protune, as well as to schedule it…I’ll call them after I’ve dealt with the fuel pump and DP.  They’re probably also going to ask me what type of tune I’m looking for, and I haven’t thought a lot on that yet.  I definitely want a safer tune than the stock tune, but I also want power.  I don’t need to be on the ragged edge tune-wise, though.  Basically,  I want as much HP as I can get while staying safe when using premium fuel.

As well, I’ll ensure that the car has been serviced before the protune.  It’s not yet due for an oil change but I’m not going to wait until it’s due.  I just might change the oil myself from now on, since I’ll be adding the DP and CAI…those parts tend to stick out during a dealership service.

This month may be pretty busy for me with the parts flowing in and the installs that I’ll need to do.

GT86 with 2JZ engine – Quarter-mile run


I saw this on G+ and when I read the initial caption, I immediately said to myself, that’s not a GT86…

It is, but in shell only, as it has a 2JZ engine (Toyota Supra). When you start swapping engines, your car is no longer what it once was.

As well, the video was rather boring…it had two minutes of fat that shoudld’ve been trimmed by the author (mostly drag strip posturing/posing). The car ran a low 10-sec quarter-mile, but I expected it to, with a modified 2JZ.

STI-specific Walbro Fuel Pump

So, I’m currently conducting research on the parts I want to install before I go to get tuned.  One of the parts is a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump.

In my quest of knowledge, I decided to check several import shops for this part.  I found this link.  It’s a $98 part that comes with an install kit.  It also has a customer review section on that page.  There are several reviews that mention that the factory housing had to be modified a bit for it to fit.  Dunno if I like that, but if I can understand what area of the housing needed grinding, I can fortify myself with that knowledge when the time comes for me to swap out the stock part with the Walbro.

One of the reviews also stated that the install kit was a waste of money and wasn’t needed.  He’s probably right, as I remember doing a direct swap when I bought a Walbro for my Talon back in the day…it was a direct swap and no install kit was needed then, either.  This link is the Walbro without the install kit.  it also has a linked video (which I’ll embed in this post) and a review that states there are YouTube videos that show how to modify/grind the factory housing.

 

EDIT:

That video was LONG and INVOLVED! Good grief. I don’t remember the Talon’s swap being that complicated. The video didn’t show the modding of the housing but did state that IWSTI had a write-up in their How-To section about modifying the housing. I looked for it and found it here.

National Speed – Tuner

So, I’m interested in determining if I should use National Speed (which I’ll sometimes refer to as ‘NS’) as a tuner.

I reached out to them via Facebook yesterday.  Below is the conversation.

Me:  

Do you guys do e-tunes? I’m looking at your web page but I don’t see mentions of e-tunes, so I’m going to assume that you don’t offer them. There are tuners up here, but you guys seem to run a great shop!

I’m in the Washington DC area…you guys aren’t exactly far, but far enough that a tuning trip might be complicated.

Manager:

Hi, Jon! First of all, what vehicle are you working with?

If you can wait a few months, we’ll have a shop much, much closer to you. We’re opening our Richmond, Virginia location shortly!

Me:

Oh damn! That’s great news! I’ve a 2011 Subaru STI (sedan) with zero mods. I can definitely wait a few months for the Richmond location to open!

Manager:

Oooo, we do love Subaru’s around here. 

What are your plans for it? Keep it simple, make it more fun? Those cars wake up big time with just a tune. Here’s a 2012 Subaru WRX STi sedan we did a while back, the only modifications are an Injen intake system, an Invidia Q300 catalytic-converter-back exhaust system, and a custom dyno tune via COBB Tuning’s AccessPORT (did I get all of that right, Christine?).

The blue graph was the first pull on stock calibration (with said bolt-on modifications), the red graph was after tuning. Quite a difference!

Me:

My list so far is, Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS, Walbro 255 fuel pump, and Cobb catted DP (as well as a Cobb AP v3).

This isn’t going to be a wild build…I’m just looking to get rid of the stock tune. I want a safety-oriented tune, but will take as much power as I can get while still being somewhat safe, if possible. I want to go straight to Stage 2 to get the most out of the time and money spent on the tune and parts. The biggest worry for me right now is driving on the stock tune. The car only has 15K miles on it, so I’m hoping the stock tune hasn’t damaged things already. I don’t beat on the car but I do autocross it (I’m not a serious competitor, though).

I had an intake on my list (AEM), but I’m not sure if the car actually needs it, so I removed it from my list.

That chart is extremely impressive…sick results! I like how the peaks and valleys of the blue graph were filled in on the red graph, too.

I’ll share the news of your upcoming Richmond shop on the IWSTI.com forums.

Car Owner of Tuned STI / Customer of National Speed:

That was it Jordan! And after that, I installed a high-flow catted DP and gained no power at all on the next tune, so I took that to mean that the stock DP and cat is already pretty much maxed out on the STi (just in case you want to save the money Rob). But I was impressed by the gains just a couple bolt-ons and a custom tune made!

The conversation dwindled after that.

I wanted to share this because, when I first saw the gains, I thought they were hokey.  They included a dyno chart that showed both the baseline (the mods were on when the baseline was run) and protune results.  They had some very high gains:  60HP/82TQ peaks, on just the tune alone (!!).  The exhaust was an Invidia Q300 catback (which is 2.75″ inch diameter and is really a full exhaust).  I’m wondering if the Invidia is what was the main factor of the tune (it would almost certainly have to be).  I also thought that the shop shouldn’t have run the baseline with the intake installed…I thought that was a huge no-no.

I posted about this on IWSTI and after discussing with another member, came to the conclusion that I should not use National Speed.

I also posted to IGASTI (igotasti.com) and provided the same information and actually got a wealth of information back from them (more so than my post at IWSTI).  One poster at IGASTI stated that I don’t really have enough information to suggest that National Speed’s numbers were hokey…I agree, in hindsight.  But my main concern is that tuners should offer as much information as possible to potential clients so that they don’t assume…NS did leave a LOT of gaps in their description of that tune, and there are not all that many Subarus making 60HP from just a tune.

I will continue to watch National Speed, but I will be checking out IAG next.  For now, it’s a bake-off between IAG and NS

Subaru Engine Assembly/Disassembly – Video

If you’re curious as to how Subaru engines are disassembled and assembled, the two videos below are bursting with knowledge and pertain to the EJ257 (STI engine in this case).

What’s cool is that the person in the video is a master Subaru technician. He explains a LOT of things (with the help of the person behind the camera). As well, he explains such terms as cracked ringlands (30 minutes into the assembly video). Ever heard the term “spun a bearing” and don’t know what the term means? He explains that term. He shows what bearings are and shows the differences between forged & cast pistons (and explains the differences between the two). He also shows the damaged caused by driving these cars with no oil.

These are great videos!

Note: I’m having a hard time finding the disassembly video, but will post it here when I find it.

’09 WRX – RRE tune @ 270HP 302TQ!

RRE tuned a 2009 WRX to 270HP and 302TQ! The car was previously using a Cobb Stage 2 map (map came in around 235HP, per RRE). Mods: AEM intake, Catted downpipe, cat-back exhaust and 3 port solenoid. The car gained + 58HP and +51TQ at 6050 RPM.

Crazy. Note that they do e-tunes as well. I might try this, since I trust them…been to their shop before and have met some of their crew – Mike Welsch, Scot Gray (dunno if he’s still affiliated with them) and a few others.

My Winter Wheels

I swapped my summer wheels for the winter wheels today, since the temps are going to be in the single digits tomorrow. I should have done it a long time ago, but I procrastinate alot.

For those of you who are new to swapping wheels seasonally, I ran into a little surprise today. I had custom wheels on the car and had hub rings installed…well, I’d forgotten about them (the hub rings) and tried to put the winter wheels on top of them. The first wheel wouldn’t go on properly. Like a dumbass, I got all five lugs snug on the wheel with the ring still in place before I realized something wasn’t right, fitment-wise. It took me a while to determine that I was installing the wheel over the hub ring when the wheel didn’t need it. So, if you have hub rings, don’t forget to remove them when they aren’t needed…also, don’t forget to replace them when needed. They are easy to forget if you don’t swap wheels a lot.

Oh yeah. I froze my ass off changing those outside of the garage. It was 32F but 20Fwith windchill, and was dropping by the minute. I need to get the other car fixed so I can get it the hell out of my garage.

Some pictures: