Category Archives: WRX

2015 Subaru WRX STI: Everything You Need To Know — AFTER/DRIVE

This is the best 2015 STI review I’ve seen yet.

Why? Because it’s an honest review that explains where the real improvements are and how those real improvements translate into a great track experience.  It discusses things such as the stupid comments about the lack of a hatch…it discusses that issue with tact.  It discusses the active torque vectoring and shows a great example of how such tech helps drivers on track (there’s video footage of it kicking in when a driver is overshooting the apex of a corner).

I really liked how the three guys discussed the car and how they were rational when discussing the differences between the STI and WRX.  They gave solid feedback on why the STI was the overall better buy (not better value buy).

I highly recommend watching this video if you want see an unbiased and frank review.

Mishimoto Cold Air Intake for 2008-2014 STI

subaru-wrx-sti-performance-air-intake-2008-2014-39

http://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-wrx-sti-performance-air-intake-08-14.html

This cold air intake (CAI) is a bit different than that’s currently on the market for the GR/GV STIs.  What’s different?  Your vehicle doesn’t need to be tuned for it to be used on your car, nor does it need to used with a Cobb AP OTS tune.  In most cases, CAIs for Subarus are not plug-n-play.  So when I saw the above URL posted within the IWSTI forums, I immediately had questions, such as ‘how did they do this?’.

Here is an engineering writeup of the product (by Mishimoto engineers).  It is actually pretty thorough.  Another cool fact is that it can still be protuned for further gains.  Mishimoto claims,

The maximum gain achieved was about 25 hp and 24 tq at around 5300 rpm, with a peak gain of 12.7 hp and 2 tq. These results are very good for such an easy part to swap out. Increases on average through the power band measured around 20 hp and 18 tq, which would certainly be noticeable to the driver.

Additional notes regarding the air/fuel ratio of a car with this particular CAI:

The Mishimoto CAI follows the stock AFR as the car builds its boost. Once the engine reaches 4000 rpm the car is under full boost, as seen when the Mishimoto CAI starts to differ from the stock unit. The maximum AFR reached was about 11.7:1, but on average the Mishimoto CAI runs about 11.3:1 when under full boost. The stock AFR maxed out at about 11:1 and averaged about 10.5:1 when under full boost. These numbers were consistent throughout multiple runs, which assured the engineers that this CAI can be used every day without harming the engine.

Looks-wise, I like the Nameless Performance CAI better, even though that particular unit still needs a Cobb AP to be used (it can be used with any map that supports the AEM CAI).  Pricing between the NP and Mishimoto CAIs are also very similar.  The NP CAI is $299 and has an arsenal of color choices of the closeout and MAF housing.  The Mishimoto CAI is $313 and only offers 3 colors of the intake piping.

I’m not sure which offers better gains on OTS tuning, but I don’t think you can go wrong with either solution.

Wrapped DP!

So, I finally found a local place (Advance Auto) that carried the wrap and supporting items. I spent the last few hours wrapping the DP. It had me cussing the whole time, mainly because it was difficult to wrap the cat because of the way it expands beyond the diameter of the pipe and then tapers back down. Starting the wrap was easy, but around the cat and the end part of the wrap…JEEZ. I ended up just tucking it. I left the excess on the end and will trim it off tomorrow.

I used plastic ties to hold the wrap in place. I’ll either remove them after the paint dries or let them melt off after installing the DP.

Again, I know that it’s a no-no to wrap a cat. I really don’t have any choice and I’ll continue trying to figure out how to protect the CV boot. If I discover how to do protect the boot, I’ll remove the wrap…since I’m spray-paining over the wrap, it should protect the pipe under the wrap.

Downpipe and Cobb AP have arrived!

So, my CNT catted downpipe  (from Cygnus Performance) arrived yesterday (Friday).  I did NOT know it was coming and was fortunately home when it arrived.

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Notice the placement of the cat.  I’m not sure I’m liking it’s position, because there have been complaints that the cat has melted the passenger-side CV boot, spilling CV grease everywhere (and at least a few instances of that grease catching fire from the cat’s heat).  The cat is big enough that it is less than an inch from the CV boot.  This isn’t the only brand that places the cat on the neck of the DP…Invidia does it, as well as a few other brands.  

So, I’ve three options to mitigate the heat of the cat from causing damage:

  1. Fabricate some type of heat shielding (doesn’t necessarily have to be a metal shroud-type of shield).
  2. Heat-wrap from the top of the neck to the bottom (wrapping the cat as well, since the cat is the main cause of the heat damage).
  3. Get a DP that has the cat near the tail.

Yes, heat-wrapping the cat can cause the cat to fail, but I’ve asked on IWSTI if anyone has ever had a cat fail because it was heat-wrapped…I got no answers.  I’d rather not heat-wrap the cat but I might not have a choice if I can’t find or fabricate a shield, because I’d rather melt the cat than melt a CV boot and damage the axle ($600 to replace) or even cause a grease fire.  I could also just sell the DP and use that money to get a better DP…I’d need $300 extra, though.  The CNT is priced at $369, which undercuts the higher-priced DPs with lower mounted cats by a good bit ($100-$250 more).  What I’m more than likely going to do is use the CNT (heat-wrapping the vertical part) and start putting money aside to get a Cobb catted DP when the CNT fails.

I’m also going to probably reinstall the stock mufflers.  Why?  Because, with the CNT DP, the current setup is going to be pretty loud (we’ll see).  My current setup consists of an axleback muffler delete system.  Without some type of muffler, the car will more than likely be loud since aftermarket DPs tend to be higher diameter and less restricting (the stock DP has two cats, I believe, which would probably help in masking sound).  I’ll run the stock mufflers until I can come up with an alternate solution (I very much want Nameless muffler replacements, but they’re around $400, much more than my Nameless axleback deletes).

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My Cobb AP v3 also arrived.  I purchased from Amazon.com and found cheaper pricing than at online tuning shops.  They typically sell them at $650, but I got mine for $639 and used the different for faster shipping…note that SKOOT LLC is selling them for $624, which is even cheaper than when I bought mine 2 weeks ago.

The AP is very nice…it should be, for $600+.  It is built well and comes with a good bit of accessories:  a USB cable for connecting to laptops to get map and firmware updates; a OBDII cable, a blue faceplate, a quick start guide, a mount, and two Cobb stickers….oh, and a case.

The unit itself has a screen that’s about the same size as an iPod.  It offers virtual gauges and you can configure it to show between 1 and 6 of them.  It also datalogs, displays any trouble codes, has launch control options, has a configurable shift light, and has Cobb’s off-the-shelf tuned maps for specific mods and fuel configurations.  The unit can be used while driving but isn’t required.

Now the only differences in capability between the v2 and v3 models is that with the v3 you can have more than one gauge up and running.  If you’ve a budget, you can still buy the v2 models…they still log data and can do pretty much everything the v3 can do.  If I really wanted to cut the budget, I could’ve just searched for a used v2, which I’ve seen as low as $350.

I’m still awaiting other parts to arrive, but I’ll begin to work on the heat-wrapping of the CNT this week and post pictures when I’ve finished.

7 lemons we can’t help but love – Road & Track

http://www.roadandtrack.com/features/web-originals/7-lemons-we-love

Some of the models listed are serious power-hitters.  The article focuses on certain years where a selected model of car has technology issues that soured the ownership experience.  The #2 car listed is the 2001-2003 Subaru WRX, by the way!

LEDs for Subaru STIs?

 

If you like the clean light that LEDs produce, there are many places online that provide the proper parts for your particular make and model of car.

I initially bought LEDs from Precision LED but one of them burned out for some reason.

When I bought from Precision LED, I bought the following:

  • Interior Base Package (2 maplight bulbs, 1 dome bulb), Cool White (8000K)
  • License Plate LEDs (Qty: 2), Crystal White (6000K)
  • Trunk LED (Qty: 1), Crystal White (6000K)

I’ve ordered another (license plate LED), as well as an extra, but from a different place, SuperBright LEDs.  The particular type I ordered is here.  I’ve not yet compared the two bulbs.

If you’ve an STI and are interested in upgrading your bulbs to LEDs, here’s the STI parts that SuperBright LEDs has to offer:  http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/2011-subaru-wrx%20sti-sedan-/59-1140-37-/

EDIT:  So, I replaced the blown Precision LED bulb with the SuperBright LED and left the other Precision LED bulb in the housing, just to see if I could get a good comparison between the two.  The SB LED is a LOT brighter, so much so that I might have to put them both in, just so the lighting doesn’t look ‘off’.  I’ll see if I can capture it on video, but here’s an evening picture comparison, with the SB LED on the left, above the lighthouses:

2015 WRX Vs. 2015 STI – Motor Authority

Read more @ http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1090558_2015-subaru-wrx-vs-2015-subaru-wrx-sti-which-is-best-for-you

 

This wasn’t a bad article, but to be honest, there have been so many that state the same things that I get a bit bored when reading them.

The few sentences/phrases that jumped out at me (I’ll state why):

 

As for the STI, it starts about $8k higher than the WRX, but it adds more standard equipment, and becomes a considerably more serious performance car.

 

This statement is golden, as it states exactly why there’s a price difference between the two models. They are NOT the same and were never meant to be competitors, yet mags keep comparing them instead of comparing them to the competition. This is a big peeve of mine, because articles such as this just stir arguments that are already heated into fire soup. The mags should be comparing the WRX to previous WRX models and it’s old and new competitors. They should be doing the same with the STI…comparing it with the previous models of STI, and also comparing it to it’s competition.

If you like the pricing of the WRX and consider it the best performance car for the money, get the WRX — just don’t think that you’re getting a cheaper STI, because you aren’t…you’re getting a faster and quicker WRX. If you want even more performance, get the STI.

 

Vast differences in performance—and WRX holds an edge in drivability

 

This above was actually a caption, but it deserves to be so. There is indeed a vast difference between the performance of the two. As was in years past, the WRX will (and probably always will) be the best at daily drivability. That’s not saying that the STI is extra-harsh, but it can be if all you’ve ever driven are cars that have plush and cushy rides. I drive my 2011 STI daily and don’t consider it to be a harsh ride, but I’m a car nut…my wife is not. She reminds me constantly that the car is low, that the car is stiff, and that the car has a harsh ride, but she drives a Honda Odyssey daily.

 

The gearboxes for both models might look the same at a very quick glance, but the WRX gets a cable-shift linkage for its lighter-duty six-speed transmission while the STI gets a heavier-duty gearbox as well as a more precise (and expensive) close-ratio unit with parallel-rod shift linkage

 

This is another ringer, IMO. There are way too many people out there thinking that the 2015 WRX got the same transmission that the STI has. NO, no, no, no, no…..and no again. It basically has the same transmission that it had in prior years, just with an extra cog. It is cable-actuated. It will not stand up to the same abuse as the STI gearbox. Just because you read that C&D did 14 high-RPM clutch dumps doesn’t mean that the transmission is bullet-proof, and most consumers won’t be treating their car with such abuse…if anything breaks, SOA will deny any associated warranty claims.

I’d suggest that anyone that has questions about the differences of the two cars should read this article, because they’ve done a good job of highlighting the cars’ differences.

Read more @ http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1090558_2015-subaru-wrx-vs-2015-subaru-wrx-sti-which-is-best-for-you

Road and Track – Dyno Tested: 2015 Subaru WRX vs. 2015 Subaru STI

http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-reviews/car-comparison-tests/2015-subaru-wrx-vs-sti

The article doesn’t really allude to much more than what’s depicted on the dyno charts.

The STI has the higher peak numbers, but the WRX pretty much overshadows the STI on the charts. It makes power much quicker than the STI (due to it’s twin scroll turbocharger and equal length headers/manifolds, more than likely). This tells me that the WRX will be easier to drive day-to-day. The dyno charts actually look a bit disturbing, as the WRX surely lords it over the STI on those charts.

And what’s ridiculous are the peak torque measurements for the WRX:  It’s making more torque than the STI and at a lower RPM:  245 lb-ft @ 3850 rpm vs 243 lb-ft @ 5000 rpm.  Is the STI experiencing parasitic drain due to it’s diffs? It had a 32 lb-ft advantage per the manufacturer’s crank measurement…that just disappeared.

And then you see the 5-60 MPH (rolling start) test results for both: WRX- 7.0, STI – 7.1.  That’s the more telling measurement.  It shows that the power-to-weight ratio isn’t really all that good, when compared to other cars in their price ranges.

The STI does the 0-60 in 4.8 seconds, while the WRX lays down a 5.2 result. For the quarter-mile, the STI runs a 13.3 @ 102 MPH; the WRX runs a 13.7 @ 99.5. And what’s really funny is the top speed for both: both are electronically limited, with the STI topping out at 155 and the WRX topping out at 174 (I’m pretty positive that’s a typo).  EDIT:  R&T stated the following — “That line, in fact, was supposed to be cut from the final draft entirely. Editing snafu. We’re putting in a strikethrough and adding a notation. Thanks for pointing this out, guys.”

The FB post is here:

 

A teaser article is here and pertains to de-winging an STI (this is not new news…there are many de-wing threads on STI and WRX forums on the interwebz).

Bucky Lasek Picks Five Speed Demons To Go On A Ride

Video topic: Bucky Lasek picks five speed demons to go on a ride they’ll never forget, in one unforgettable car. Which car is it? The 2015 WRX!

The video is also linked here.

Nameless – CAI for GRs/GVs Released!

So, Nameless Performance finally released their new cold air intake for GR/GV models.

c though! I’m not sure I want it, now, but I may purchase it anyways…gotta recrunch my numbers, because I’ve a budget of $2000 for mods this year (including a protune). $300 may put me over the budget limit.

Now, what’s cool about this intake is that it is compatible with COBB’s AccessPort Off The Shelf Stage 1+/2+ Tunes for the AEM or COBB Intake. Also note that a tune is required to run this (and any) intake.

Also, the the cost can escalate, as you can customize this intake’s coloring. The coloring options are listed here.